Vietnam – The best Pho in Hanoi is…

…a very difficult one to call. Before I give the final answer, a subjective one of course, it’s important to define what actually makes a good pho (in case you haven’t read my other Vietnam posts, pho is the general name for the thick rice noodles served in broth). Here is my take on it:

1)      For me the whole dish hinges on the broth. And I found that a Hanoi pho has a distinct broth which is sweet (not by sugar) and homely, and does not contain additives like chilli sauce, vinegar or garlic. I hear that connoisseurs of pho like to lightly stir their noodles in the broth and then take a mouthful of the sweet broth. Straight away you know if it is good or not.

2)      The next thing is the quality of the meat. We came across two main types of pho: pho bo (beef) and pho ga (chicken).

Pho Bo: here brisket is usually used, which is from the front underside of the cow. I came across three variants of pho bo. The first was pho bo chin, which uses a beef that has been boiled, hung up to dry and is then sliced. The second was pho bo tai, where the fat and tendons are removed from the beef. The beef is cut into small pieces, put in a ladle and the ladle is half submerged in the vat of broth. The meat is pulled out when semi-cooked.  The third variant I saw was pho tai nam. This one is similar to pho bo tai except that cooked meat is served with raw meat. In all instances the beef is placed on the noodles in a serving dish and then broth is poured over.

 

Pho Bo Sign in Hanoi

Pho Bo Sign in Hanoi

 

Pho Ga: I only saw one variant of pho ga. In Hanoi only the chicken breast is served in this noodle soup, so to get a good mark, mentally in my head anyway, the breast had to be nice and tender and full of flavour.

 

Pho Ga - Chicken Noodle Soup

Pho Ga – Chicken Noodle Soup

 

3)      The noodles are another important part. They should be nice and slippery with no ‘sliminess’. To be honest all the noodles I tried in Hanoi were near damn perfect.

4)      Additions. This is really about what was served with the pho. Usually the pho is served with spring onions and garlic chives. Also, an additional bowl would be served containing anything from the following; perilla leaves, Asian mint, coriander, Vietnamese mint, crisp lettuce, miniature limes and fiery chilli. I can’t remember any pho being served with bean shoots although when I eat pho in Little Vietnam in Melbourne there are always bean shoots. I actually think the pho is better without them.

I worked out that we have eaten pho at nearly every type of establishment, and have eaten it for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Apart from one which was average (it was an international chain of Pho restaurants), all of them have been unique and ‘insanely great’ (stole that one from Mr Jobs, RIP).

We had the honour of eating pho ga on Christmas night with the owners of the apartment and all the other tenants. This was a wonderful experience with in an international group of people socialising, laughing and telling stories whilst lapping up beautiful noodle soup, spring rolls, sticky rice and punchy and herbaceous salads.

We had memorable pho bo and pho ga on the edge of the mountains in Sapa – it was cold there, so the hot noodle broth for breakfast instilled a warmth that would carry you through to lunch.

We have eaten pho at little places we have discovered in Hanoi; usually tiny holes in a wall kitted out with miniature plastic stools and tables, and serving the most incredible pho.

But the winner of the best pho, and the place that completes number 10 in the top ten of must eat street food experiences, goes to a place that is renowned for its pho in Hanoi, and the one that I saved till last to eat in. Located in the middle of the Old Quarters this pho joint is mentioned in a couple of publications that we have in Vietnam with us; Luke Nguyen’s book ‘Songs of Sapa’ and Lonely Planet Vietnam.

I awoke at 6.30 in the morning and took the 25 minute walk from our apartment to Pho Gia Truyen, the name of the pho stall. I was greeted by a queue of locals that were being served by a Vietnamese lady with an intimidating looking meat knife. She was delicately cutting slices from the big piece of brisket.

 

Number 10 - Pho Bo (Pho Gia Truyen)

Number 10 – Pho Bo (Pho Gia Truyen)

 

As my turn arrived to be served she barely lifted her head, but I could see her eyeballs stretching to look at me. She gave me the look of ‘are you going to order or what?’

Nervously, I said “pho bo, cam on”. She raised her head, gave a little smile and pointed to the menu. There were three things all of which I had never heard of so I plumped for pho tai nam (see above). I sat down at a small table where my knees covered my ears. Everyone let out a big gesticulation of laughter and they pointed to a bigger table. Smiling, I moved and was then served the most sweet, beefy and heart-warming broth that I had eaten in Hanoi.

 

Pho Tai Nam Beef Noodle Soup

Pho Tai Nam Beef Noodle Soup

 

The meat was incredibly tender, the noodles were unctuous and the herbs, although few, harmonised with the whole dish. My best pho in Hanoi.

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6 comments

Richard February 7, 2013 - 3:30 pm

Your writing about Phở was amazing. I am from Hanoi and just moved to HCMC last June. I miss Phở Hanoi style. In the South people just add too much sugar so the taste is not appealing to me. My Malaysian friends would love Phở at Ấu Triệu Street, next to the Grand Cathedral. If you have time, please try and see whether you like it or not.
BTW, I always order well cook meet (chín, nạm, gầu) and avoid fresh raw meet (tái) just to make sure no ecoli or something similar can cause me trouble.

Reply
nicholas February 7, 2013 - 9:48 pm

Hey Richard,

Thanks for your comment. My trip to Hanoi has been a very special one, and I was blown away by the perfect simplicity of the food there. I went to HCMC about 10 years ago and loved the food – sweet and pungent. Hanoi, however, has made me appreciate the more subtle flavours of ingredients without the need to over sweeten and over spice. The phở I found quite stunning, and great for breakfast
I ate just round the corner from St Josephs – I loved the nem cua bể. Next time I go back I will try the phở at Ấu Triệu Street.

Reply
HN July 9, 2013 - 9:53 am

I personally love all that additions of the southern adaptions of pho. All the fresh herbs (bean sprouts!!), srirachi, hoisin sauce, and a squeeze of lime. Mmmm!!! 🙂

Reply
Nicholas Ross July 12, 2013 - 4:17 pm

Hanoians tended not to go for the heat and the sweetness that chilli and hoisin sauce provide. I found that it was used more in Ho Chi Minh City when I was there previously. I love either way, personally.

Reply
Alexis Huynh August 9, 2017 - 9:44 pm

You’re really knowledgeable about Pho in Hanoi. It’s rare that a foreigner try chicken Pho. :))
I recently lived in Hanoi and all my friend travelling Hanoi only ask me to let them try beef Pho.
Have you try Pho Cuon? It’s rolled Pho, the meat is sweet and well blended with the smell of ginger. I think you would like it.
Here is the guide for best Pho and to try all type of Pho in Hanoi, take a look if you’re planning a trip to Hanoi again: https://blog.inspitrip.com/4341/best-pho-in-hanoi/

Reply
Nicholas Ross August 10, 2017 - 8:07 pm

Hey, thanks for your comment. I never got to try pho cuon, although I did eat a lot of banh cuon which I love. I’ll check your link out. By the way I’ve recipes for pho ga and pho bo on here that I learnt whilst in Hanoi. Let me know what you think.

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