My grandma was an absolute card. A cheeky scallywag from Liverpool, she was a real bag of fun that would tell you how it was. I used to love going to the grocers with her where she would pick up a vegetable or piece of fruit push her thumb into it and then throw it back in disgust at the abhorrent lack of quality. Only when the item was right would she then carefully place it in her basket. Despite her complete practical approach to cooking she cared about what her grandchildren ate. Never was this more apparent than when she cooked scrambled eggs. I have vivid memories of delicate, light and airy eggs, perfectly seasoned and served steaming on crunchy toast. There was no technological whizz-bangery going on; just an electric hob, trusty old pan and a wooden spoon that had worn down to about half its original size. But as my childhood memories resurface I remember them being breakfast Utopia.
Over my life I have been served an almost infinite variety of scrambled eggs. From the seemingly ‘gourmet’ ‘sloppy’ variety, which seem to be the trend at the moment, to the overcooked microwaved variety; I never return to a café that has served microwaved scrambled eggs – the notion and the result is nothing short of culinary blasphemy. I have also had incredible scrambled eggs, where the chef has understood and accomplished the balance between being actual scrambled eggs and being light and tasty.
I have tried and tested different recipes over time and this is the one that I am really happy with. I am sure you’ll love this plate of indulgence; they sit on that fine line between being under and over cooked, and they have an unctuous manner about them. Get in your kitchen, crack open those eggs and go and treat yourself, or even somebody else.
Unctuous Scrambled EggsPrint
- ■ 25g butter | French is great e.g. D’Isigny, Lescure or President.
- ■ 4 free range eggs | Organic free range give a great taste.
- ■ 40g double cream | Single cream can be used – I just indulge this with double.
- ■ 1 tsp. Dijon mustard |
- ■ 50ml full fat milk |
- ■ seasoning of sea salt and black pepper.
Add the butter to a pre-heated medium pan – continually whisk until the butter foams, defoams and then turns a nut brown. Pour in to a small heat proof container and set aside.
Cool the pan which will still have a film of the nutty brown butter. Once cool put on a low heat.
To a bowl add the eggs, cream and mustard. Whisk gently with a fork – there will probably still be large lumps of double cream in it. Add the milk and salt. Scrape any double cream from the fork and add to the egg, and then whisk the mixture. This will help everything to meld together. Don’t worry if there are still small lumps of double cream as these will deliciously melt once cooking starts.
Add the egg mixture to the pan and then continually, and gently, stir whilst scraping the bottom of the pan with a soft spatula; scraping the bottom of the pan will ensure that the eggs do not overcook on the pan’s surface. The secret to the lightness is to treat them with kid gloves – keeping a low heat and gently stirring and scraping continuously. When the eggs are looking more ‘solid’ yet still have liquid, add the nutty brown butter. Stir and then remove the eggs from the heat. Stir for another 30 seconds or so (the eggs will continue to cook once off the heat). Serve immediately.
I serve them on wholemeal toast, casa linga or sourdough (no butter required) with a sprinkle of freshly cracked black pepper.
To get the best results will take experimentation as there are so many variables in your kitchen that will be different to mine, but the key is gentle cooking and continual scraping and stirring.