Spaghetti Bolognese

Introduction:

Hovering over a cauldron of hot meat, somewhere in a poky flat in London, two students of chemistry fervently debate what they honestly believe to be the finer points of an Italian classic. No, no, one must dissolve the stock cube in 40 degree water before-hand…ah but my learned friend, one can just simply sprinkle it straight in to the meat, and considering the energy coefficient of solubility it will be fine. We beg to differ, but surely anyone worth their salt would cook the meat first and then add onions. Oh my fellow collegiate, it is all but obvious that one cooks the onions first and then adds the meat. But why Balsamic? I mean why are you throwing a carboxylic acid in to a meat sauce, you’re mad…..Ahh yes but this acid will be offset by the coefficient of not really knowing what we are doing.

Through all of this intense, and what we thought was intellectual, debate not once was the true understanding of what we were doing discussed. In particular thinking about flavour, texture and the science of what really happens.

I remember a two day residential course during my A-level years (16-18 year old) at a university in the North of England and being bedazzled by the professor of organic chemistry who could synthesise the most incredible molecules from basic reagents. But this is not the reason why the experience has stuck with my all these years later. It was the sheer brilliance of the man when it came to making coffee. And it was brilliance because it was so bad. A lumpy (undissolved powdered milk), weak and tepid mess that was more Damien Hirst than Delia Smith.

Luckily for me, I managed to overcome the handicap of being a chemist to be able to cook with a degree of flair and efficiency, I hope. Years on from that meat cauldron I  have been able to understand more about what happens when cooking – and do now consider flavour- and feel confident enough now to share with you my latest, and proudest, version of the Italian classic, spaghetti Bolognese.

Fortunately I discovered two things: the first is the wonderful mirepoix, and the second is that I can cook the meat and onions at the same time, in different pans. Now try telling that to a professor of chemistry. Enjoy.

 

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2 comments

LindySez June 18, 2013 - 3:39 am

Like your writing style. Your recipe is “different” from most traditional bolognese recipes I have seen but sounds good; and I love baking my spaghetti meat sauces slowly in the oven, the even heat just cooks it better IMHO…

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Nicholas Ross June 18, 2013 - 8:29 am

Hello there LindySez,

Thank you for your comment, It’s always heartening as a writer to get some great feedback.

The Bolognese has taken so many forms over the years, and it wasn’t until a couple of years ago that I stumbled upon Ferran Adria’s (from El Bulli) version that I started to think more about what goes in, what’s happening and what flavours would favour such a sauce. From thereon I have amended my recipe until it’s current form. I also agree that slow cooking in the oven produces a wonderfully consistent meat sauce.

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